Conditioners

Conditioners are essential for natural hair. Shoot, I'mma say hair PERIOD, but for the sake of this blog, we're focusing on the nappy hair...

There are different types of conditioners for different types of hair needs...There's a zillion brands and formulations...Finding the right conditioner has been likened to finding the Holy Grail. Why? Because a good conditioner can do so much to make the sometimes ROAR of naural hair purr like a kitten...Conditioners add the shine, managability, body, etc. that we look for...

When choosing a conditioner and trying them out, it's always best to try it out on clarified hair. Hair that has been thoroughly cleaned from other gunk and junk build up (ACV rinses are my favorite...Clarifying shampoos have sulfates which I don't care for). Don't just clarify for trying out purposes only, but period. Conditioners have a tendancy to build up after a while, so clarifying about once a month is always a good idea to keep your condish working at its optimum level.

Types of condish: (from http://www.askabeauty.com/hair-conditioner-types.htm)

1. Crème rinse:

2. Instant conditioners

3. Deep conditioners

4. Body builders

5. Hair repair

6. Herbal rinses

Of all the products that I've tried over the years, I've tried conditioners out the most....Probably 3 to 1...What I look for in a conditoner are:

1. Moisturizing

2. Slip (the property that breaks the hair down and makes the hair "slippery" and combable (for detangling)

3. Humectants

My hair can get dry, so conditioners can can do the above help me A LOT!!!

Here is a list of great conditioners broken down by type:


Instant (no particular order):

1. Aussie 3 Minute Miracle

2. Bumble and Bumble Curl Conscious Conditioner (seriously over priced, but it's good)

3. Suave Humectant

4. Pantene Pro-V Nourishing Moisture Replenishing Mask

5. Creme of Nature

6. Nadia Avocado Conditioner

Deep Conditioners

1. Elucence Moisture Balancer Conditioner

2. Cat Walk Oatmeal and Honey

3. ABBA Nourishing Conditioner

4. Carol's Daughter Tui Hair Smoothie (can be used as an instant as well)

5. Curls Curl Ecstacty Hair Tea

6. Nadia Banana Brulee Moisturizing Deep Conditioner

7. Jason Mint & Rose Intense Moisture Treatment

8. Burt's Bees Hair Repair Shea & Grapefruit Deep Conditioner


Protein (use very, very sparingly)

1. Aubrey's Organics GPB

2. Aphogee Hair Reconstructor

Leave-Ins

1. Oyin's Greg Juice

2. Jane Carter Solution Revitalizing leave-om

3. Aussie Hair Insurance Leave-In Conditioner

4. Nexxus Weightless Leave-In Conditioner

Homemade Conditioning treatments:

Avocado/Mayo Deep Conditioner (from http://www.pioneerthinking.com/conditioner1.html)

1 small jar of real mayonnaise
1/2 of an avocado

Directions

Put together in a medium bowl and squish together with your hands until it's a minty green color. Smooth into hair all the way to the tips. Put on a shower cap or wrap your head with saran wrap.
Leave on for 20 minutes. For deeper conditioning put a hot, damp towel around your head -over the saran wrap. And if you have really long hair and only need deep conditioning at the ends, cut the ingredients in half and apply only to the ends and just wrap them.

Tropical Conditioner (http://hmbeautyrecipes.homestead.com/HAIRconditioner.html)

Ingredients:
1 peeled and mashed Avocado
1 cup Coconut milk

Directions:
Combine mashed avocado with some coconut milk in a small bowl. Heat in microwave for approx. 45 seconds. Stir. Test temperature. Massage mixture into hair.Wrap hair in a hot towel or cover with shower cap for 15 minutes. Shampoo & rinse out.

Honey Conditioner (http://hmbeautyrecipes.homestead.com/HAIRconditioner.html)

Ingredients:
1 tsp honey
2 Tbs olive oil
1 egg yolk.

Directions:
Mix all ingredients in small bowl. Massage on hair in small sections. Wrap head with shower cap for 30 minutes. Rinse and shampoo

Honey/Olive Oil Conditioner

1/2 cup honey
1/4 cup of oilve oil

Directions
Mix ingredients in a small bowl. Heat in microwave for 20 seconds. Slather on hair in sections. Wrap head with plastic cap, then wrap with warm towel. Leave on for 30 minutes. Rinse and shampoo.

Mrs. Saucy...

I love this girl! She's such a doll...Whenever she smiles, you can't help but get all warm and fuzzy inside...I've never met her in person, but she's been an online buddy of mine for about a year. We planned our weddings together on The Knot and Brown And Bridal. And you should see her photos!!!! Amazing...Anyhoo...

Kendra, a.ka. Busybodyk is a natural in ATL. She's got great fiery kinks and coils. I literally squealed when she agreed to be showcased on I'm Not Lye-ing. Thanks Kendra!!!

1. How long did you transition? - 9 months. I braided my hair, did twist sets and even straightened it a time or two.

2. When did you BC - About 9 months after my last perm. I couldn't take it anymore! LOL I loved the feel of my natural hair growing in. It felt so soft and nice. My ends felt like straw and the spot where they met was a tangled mess. Styling became hard and I was tired of braids. It was time but I was nervous. I asked my boyfriend (now husband) to meet me at the hair dresser after it was cut. He was so sweet, telling me how beautiful I was and took me out for drinks to celebrate. We ran into some friends and they loved my new look. I had a huge smile. I couldn't get over how great I looked. I fell in love with my hair for the first time ever. Now its a full blown love affair.

3. How do you style from day to day? Do you style differently for work? - Most days during the winter I do a roller set. This style is good for casual and work. I normally set it on Sunday so its tightly curled on Monday and the curls get looser by Friday. By the weekend my hair looks really cool and I can get it to look wild or tame. In the summer I wash n go using Kinky Curly Curling Custard. I wear a fro or pull my hair up into a high puff most days. These are really easy looks to achieve. Most days I spend 5 minutes or less on my hair.

4. Have you ever gotten negative feedback for your choice to be natural at work? - No. I don't think anyone at work has a problem with it. I have never felt embarrassed or had people make comments on my hair other than positive ones. I even went on job interviews and got a new job with natural hair. One thing I have noticed is that my hair doesn't make that much of a difference unless you are focused on it. Outside of work, I have gotten the most compliments from black men. Sometimes they want to touch my hair and they seem like they have more respect for me or something (interesting).

5. What are your favorite styles? -I love to: Twist set -

Puff -

6. What are your favorite products? Shampoo, conditioner, deep conditioner, leave-in, moisturizer...Shampoo - Elucence Moisture Benefits ShampooConditioner - Elucence Moisture Balancing ConditionerLeave in conditioner - Mixed Chicks leave in ConditionerSetting lotion/foam - IC Styling Foam (no alcohol!)Moisturizer - Miss Jessies Baby Buttercream

7. Do you have any hair goals? I just want my hair to be healthy.

8. Do yo have any challenges with your hair that you're working through? i.e. styling challenges, growth challenges, etc. How are you addressing them? - My hair not growing as fast as I would like. I thought my natural hair would grow faster. I don't think it is but I am over it. I just want healthy hair. I think I'm doing a good job at that.

9. Has your decision to be natural changed anything about you? - I think I feel so much better about the way I look, even on BAD hair days. It just doesn't affect me as much. I don't even like the way my hair looks straight anymore. I think I've gained a new kind of respect for my hair and what it does naturally but at the same time I know I am not my hair.

Her Fotki hair album: http://members.fotki.com/NaturallyKendra/about/

It's a DANG conspiracy!!!

For so long Cream of Nature has made a decent sulfate free shampoo...I've told many women who were trying to go "sulfate free" about it...

So I'm in Wally World this past weekend looking at the hair products (something I can't help but do) and I notice their new spa-type packaging...

THEY'RE SHAMPOOS HAVE SULFATES NOW!!! BOOOO!!!!!

I'm standing in the aisle in shock...I'm going off, going from one formulation to the next and SLAMMING the bottle down on the shelf...My poor husband is looking around like, "Lawd, help this child"...

Apparently, the Cream of Nature geniuses have paid attention to the fact that there's a market out there for women of color who are in search of more natural spa-like products...What they're OBVIOUSLY missing is that these same women are paying atttention to the ingredients in the shampoos!!! (Or at least that's my logic)...They've started formulating the new shampoo with these wonderful sounding spa ingredients, and to die for marketing with a description like this:

Organic Kiwi & Citrus Ultra Moisturizing Shampoo gently cleanses, detangles, and conditions while infusing dry, brittle hair with moisture derived from Kiwi fruit.

But at the end of the day, the've added sulfates...It's second on the dang ingredient list! What they SHOULD have said was "Here...rub some boo-boo in your hair! It's fresh!" What's that all about? I mean for real...It's like building a house on an industrial waste site....Who cares that it's a 10,000 square foot mansion with marble floors and such...It's built on a dang on dump!!! Talkin' 'bout some Moist Kiwi & Citrus...What? Do I look like Boo-Boo the Fool? I'm insulted...

BUSTERS!!!!! UGGGHHH!!!!

Here's the new ingredient list to the Kiwi & Citrus offering:

Ultra-Purified Water - Aqua , Sodium Laureth Sulfate , Cocamidopropyl Betaine , Glycol Stearate , Peppermint Leaf Extract - Mentha Piperita , Basil Extract - Ocimum Basilicum , Polygala Senega Root Extract , Watercress Extract - Nasturtium Officinale , Sage Leaf Extract - Salvia Officinalis , Thyme Extract - Thymus Vulgaris , Rosemary Leaf Extract - Rosmarinus Officinalis , Grapefruit Seed Extract - Citrus Grandis , Kiwi Fruit Extract - Actinidia Chinensis , Peppermint Oil - Mentha Piperita , Lime Oil - Citrus Aurantifolia , Spearmint Leaf Oil - Mentha Viridis , Coconut Oil - Cocos Nucifera , Allantoin , Tocopheryl Acetate , Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice , Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch , Wheat Amino Acids , Amodimethicone , Butylene Glycol , PEG-12 Dimethicone , Polyquaternium-10 , Polyquaternium-59 , Glycerin , Citric Acid , Polysorbate 20 , Fragrance - Parfum , Clove Flower Oil - Eugenia Caryophyllus , Orange Oil - Citrus Aurantium Dulcis , Grapefruit Seed Oil - Citrus Grandis , Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil , Benzyl Salicylate , Citronellol , Coumarin , Hydroxycitronellal , Limonene , Linalool , Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone , Methylparaben , Propylparaben , Methylchloroisothiazolinone , Methylisothiazolinone , Yellow 5 - CI 19140 , Yellow 6 - CI 15985 , Caramel

FI-YAH!!!!

Please play the Ohio Player's cut "Fire" while reading this post...

Ladies and Gents, I give you Her Royal Hotness...Von...

Von is an online BFF of mine representing South Carolina. She cracks me up EVERY SINGLE DAY...She's an absolute doll, and she's HOT! Von is transitioning, like a CHAMP! I was able to be a part of her decision to go natural, and I'm soooo honored she agreed to be showcased on I'm Not Lye-ing.

I've asked Von to talk about her transitioning experience so she can give a first hand account of her triumphs, struggles, and everything that goes into ditching the creamy crack!

When did you start to transition? November 2007

What made you decide to stop relaxing? Inspiration from other natural ladies. I was tired of the constant shedding and thinning. Going natural was the only hair regimen I hadn't tried to improve my hair's health.

How are you transitioning? braids, wigs, weaves, nothing... I would wear a sew-in for 1½-2 months, then wear my hair (fro) for 2 months, and then another sew-in, and so forth.

What do you do during the “rough” times to help you get through? I honestly haven't had those moments...yet. I've been cutting my ends almost monthly, so I haven't had a problem with managing the 2 textures.

What/Who is your inspiration? Ree, of course.lol What keeps me inspired is the thought that ONE day, I would have a head full of healthy hair, which I haven't had since I was 3 years old (b4 the creamy crack). I, too, one day want to be the inspiration for someone else. So, I must keep going.

How long will you transition? One year, and then I'll do the BC.

What styles do you wear the most? When I'm not wearing my fro, I'm wearing a sew-in.

What products do you use? Shea butter mixture (raw shea butter, tea tree/olive/jojoba oil, Infusium leave-in conditioner, & Creme of Nature leave-in conditioner) for moisturizer, the Creme of Nature line, & Infusium leave-in. I want to try Curlz or Kinky Curlz, but the prices are too steep for me.

Do you have any advice to those wishing to transition? DO IT!! Don't just do it b/c the natural styles look cute but for the health of your hair. It's not going to be easy, and it can make you feel like you want to give up. Your fam & friends may say the most hurtful things about your hair. Your 2 textures may not always agree. Your hair may tangle. You may want to SCREAM!! My advice is...listen to your hair!! If the 2 textures don't agree, then do not be afraid to chop those relaxed ends off. If your hair is dry, give it moisture. Be good to your hair and it will be good to you.

::ree waves church fan:: You betta PREACH!!!

Umm, this is how it's done, people! She's bout it!!! 2 dang inches at once...She's not trimming...This is what folks call a "mini-chop"...

Shampoo

Cleaning our hair is very important...The question is what to use? There are so many methods of cleaning, and I've tried a lot of them...

No-pooing (shampooing with conditioner only)

Shampooing (shampooing with...shampoo...)

Lo-pooing (mixing a little shampoo in your conditioner)

ACV rinses (rinsing hair with apple cider vinegar to clarify and get the goop out, followed with conditioner or even shampoo...)

When choosing cleaning products (sounds like a Pine-sol commercial...), we have to start paying more attention to the ingredients in the product. A lot of times I get questions regarding "dry hair" and itchy scalp, etc...I always ask...What products are you using??? Sometimes it's not some serious, God awful "something" going on with our hair. It's the products that we've been using for so long that is causing the angst. When transitioning, a lot of times people keep using the same products that they've used when their hair was relaxed. Not a good idea. Those 2 textures are going to rebel, and the harsh detergents in shampoo is NOT going to help.

First things first...Step away from the shampoos that contain sulfates. There are soooo many readily available shampoos out there that do not contain sulfates. Here's a list of some really good shampoos. My favorites (*)...

*Curls Curlicious Curls Cleansing Cream

*Aubrey Organics Primrose & Lavender Scalp-Soothing Shampoo

*Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo
*Oyin's Grand Poo Bar

Carol's Daughter Tui Herbal Shampoo
Qhemet Biologics Egyptian Wheatgrass Cleansing Tea

Giovanni Smooth As Silk Shampoo
If you're going to follow a no-poo or low-poo regimen, pay attention to the silicones in the products...They're not bad, but they can attribute to build up which can lead to dandruff, styles not working "right", coated hair...Silicones in conditioners generally end with -cone...If you start experiencing the above, give yourself an ACV rinse to clarify your hair (1/2 cup to about a quart of water).

If considering a no-poo or co-wash (conditioner wash), you don't necessarily need to buy an expensive conditioner...I like Suave an V05 products...They get the job done believe it or not. Just choose something that is very creamy and provides lots of "slip" which will provide ease in the detangling department.

Controversy...

I'm about to start some...I suppose...I'm actually not controversial...I'm a lover not a fighter ;), but I always seem to "step in it" from time to time...

Anyhoo...There's something that I'm seeing more and more, and it's REALLY bothering me...

CHILDREN WITH EXTENSIONS AND PHONY PONYTAILS...

(I saw a few online pictures that I was going to link to this post, but thought against it.)

What are we teaching this new generation of children??? Are we teaching them that their hair is not good enough? I saw a little girl at Kroger yesterday with extensions to the middle of her back. They were gathered into a pony tail, and she couldn't have been older than 5. I was like, "Wow...Is combing hair that difficult?" I'm so not trying to oversimplify anything, as I don't have children, so I'm not sure of how difficult it is. I know we live in another time than when I was that age, but my mom ALWAYS combed my hair and put them in the little pig tails and that was it...The length was what it was...No extras...

With so many AA women struggling with their own identity, being bombarded by media's interpretation of beauty (that is NOT us), I feel like sometimes we can't win for losing. Compound that with decades of poor hair care and product offerings and hair style trends that have kept our hair short, broken off and generally unhealthy. Why put this pressure on these babies to have to live up to the Yakki???

Children shouldn't be wearing extensions, in my opinion...I think it's damaging their ability to accept themselves EXACTLY as God made them....

Moisture

That seems to be everybody's problem at some point. So how do we keep our tresses from getting dried out??? Good oils and butters...(and leave-ins...saving that for another post)...

There are many things that cause dry hair:

1. Excessive heat (blow dryers, curling irons, flat irons, straightening combs, etc.)

2. Harsh detergents

3. The weather

4. Poor Diet

5. Chemical treatments like coloring

6. Products

I'm sure there are more...

This post is about moisturizers that I love.

First and formost, GREASE...Is not a moisturizer....This stuff is crap...

Please start reading the lables of the products you use. Petroleum (or Petrolatum) Jelly is a by-product of crude oil...It has no business being used for our bodies...I don't care what "grandmama" said...Vaseline, do-gro, all that mess...

Here's a list of oils I use. There are A LOT more but here's a small list:

Shea Butter (unrefined)

Shealoe Butter (shea butter and aloe butter mixed)

Sweet Almond Oil

Castor Oil

Olive Oil

Jojoba Oil

Coconut Oil

Babassu Oil

If you're not into mixing, here are some good moisturizers:

Oyin's Shine and Define (http://www.oyinhandmade.com/)

If you love the texture of "grease"...Oyin's Burnt Sugar Hair Pomade

Curls Whipped Butter (http://www.curls.biz/)

Curls Milkshake (http://www.curls.biz/)
Carol's Daughter Healthy Hair Butter (http://www.carolsdaughter.com/)

Nadia's Seyani Hair Butter (http://www.shescentit.com/

Apply to the hair only...Not the scalp..."Greasing" the scalp isn't cool...You're blocking the pores, and the scalp actually makes its own oils...If you have a dry scalp, you've got OTHER issues...greasing or oiling isn't going to get to the root problem...(we'll talk about that in another post)...